Helenamanzano
Helena Manzano’s transition from fresh London College of Fashion graduate, circa 2014, to rising star, circa right now, owes much to the antidotal qualities of her namesake brand’s dichotomous unfinished-yet-complete complexion. A pervasive nonchalant, bordering-on-incidental sultriness is fed by cropped hems, cut-out detailing, and freely intertwining self-tie fastenings. The frequent application of exposed pinch seams finished with tonally contrasting flatlock stitching emphasizes the on-body planar dimensionality of her designs while creating a shaded relief topography that perceptibly fluctuates in accordance with the wearer’s motions. Bleach-effect graphic patterns, at times concrete, at times abstract, add an impression of after-market DIY modification. In an effort to mitigate seasonal waste, left-over fabrics are repurposed in the production of new garments. These facets build up into a slinky naïveté that Manzano’s self-referential work uses to wedge open the numerous chinks already apparent in the curtain wall that envelops the haute couture-fast fashion cycle, and, in an invitation unpolluted by any hint of guile, offer a fresh arena in which one can express self.
